破碎海滩
破碎海滩-
基于一组色散关系得到改进的完全非线性Boussinesq方程建立了一个波浪模型可以模拟近岸水域的波浪变浅、破碎以及在海滩上的爬高等多种变形。
Based on a set of enhanced fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations , a numerical wave model is established in this paper , which features the capability of modeling various wave transformations such as shoaling , breaking and runup on the beach .