波陡

关于波陡的特性

On Characteristics of Wave Steepness

通过试验结果分析，讨论了堤顶高度、波浪方向、波浪多向性、堤前水深和波陡等因素对单位堤长平均越浪量和单波最大越浪量的影响。

The effects of crest , angle , multi-directionality , depth and wave steepness on average overtopping discharge maximum overtopping per wave is presented .

一种基于Noblesse的新细长船理论与波陡限制的船舶兴波阻力计算方法

Method of Ship Wave Resistance Calculation Based on Noblesse 's New Slender Ship Theory and Wave-Steepness Restriction

相反，破碎能量损失随初始波陡（ak）0的变化曲线对于谱形有着显著的依赖性。

In contrast , the dependences of the fractional energy losses on the initial steepnesses ( ak ) 0 have significant discrepancies for the different spectrums .

海浪的特征波陡

On the characteristic wave steepness

本文还推出了风浪的平均波陡与平均波龄的经验式以及波高和波长随波龄变化的经验式。

Moreover , the empirical formula of the wave height and the wave length of the wind wave change with the wave age is also presented .

均方波陡表示海面斜率总方差，反映海面的粗糙程度。

The mean square slope is defined as the total slope variance of sea surface , and it reflects the coarse degree of the sea surface .

研究波高、波陡、坡比对堤前波压力及上抬波压力的影响。

Changes of wave pressure ahead of the embankment and uplift wave pressure subjected to the changes of wave height , wave steepness and degree of slope are studied .

基于回归分析，考虑淹没、越浪、波陡、相对水深和相对筒径等的影响，给出了作用在大圆筒上的波浪力和波浪力矩的计算公式，可用于工程实践。

On the basis of regression analysis , the relationship between wave parameters and wave force as well as moment acting on the large diameter cylinder structure is given .

从风浪的能量变化出发，将波陡、波龄随无因次风区的变化关系与有效波能量平衡方程相结合，提出了新的风浪成长关系。

Then we enter on the variety of wind wave energy . Combining the relationship between wave steepness and wave age with the significant wave energy balance equation for wind wave , a new wind wave growth relation is presented .

根据试验中各种波浪影响因素，试验得出不同波陡、不同堤体坡率以及不同水深波高对管袋结构稳定性的影响，给出相关建议，供工程实际参考；

Basing on various influencing factors of wave , the experiment achieves that various wave steepness , ratios of slope and different depth of water and wave heights have a great effect on the stability of structure and presents the recommendations so as to instruct practical engineering .

为了研究孤立波在带有陡升台地的陆架上的传播，用MAC方法求解了二维纳维尔-斯托克斯方程。

The two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations are solved by the MAC method to study a solitary wave propagation on a shelf with a terrance risen up suddenly .

基于新波理论的陡波数值模拟

Numerical Simulation of Steep Waves Based on New Wave Theory

非线性作用会造成波型的陡凸，从而造成流函数正负环流的不对称和环流流线的密集；

The non-linear effects can make abrupt wave pattern , accordingly can bring non-symmetry of stream function and high concentration of streamline .

在新波理论的基础上，引入可以同时表示波高和波陡的变换函数（？）

Based on new wave theory , consider a transformation function (?)