波浪破碎

在前人的理论工作和实验观测的基础上，文中首先分析了波浪破碎和Stokes漂对海洋上混合层可能造成影响的几个方面。

The effects of the wave breaking and the Stokes drift on the mixed layer are analyzed in detail .

本文系统地分析评价了目前Boussinesq类方程的研究进展，介绍了各种基于Boussinesq方程的波浪破碎模型。

In this paper the recent development in Boussinesq model and wave breaking model are reviewed .

基于Boussinesq方程的波浪破碎模型的研究综述

A Review of Boussinesq-type Equations and Breaking Models

采用能模拟波浪破碎的流体体积函数（VOF）方法跟踪波动自由表面；

The VOF ( Volume of Fluid ) method is used to track the free surface .

用一种全非线性Boussinesq方程模拟斜坡上的波浪破碎和爬高

Using A New Form of Second-order Fully Nonlinear Boussinesq Wave Equations to Simulate Wave Breaking and Runup on A Slope Bed

文中重点提出一种基于完全非线性Boussinesq方程的波浪破碎改进模型，用于模拟近岸浅水波浪破碎。

This paper proposed an improved wave-breaking model based on the fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations to simulate wave breaking in the surf zone .

然后，论文探讨了一种基于完全非线性Boussinesq方程的波浪破碎模型在沿岸流计算中的应用问题。

Then a numerical wave breaking model based on the fully-nonlinear Boussinesq equations is investigated in terms of its application in calculation of longshore current .

为解决复杂情况下近岸破波区波浪破碎后的沿岸流计算问题，提出一种基于Boussinesq波动方程的统一的波、流数值计算模式。

To obtain a way for calculation of longshore current in the surf zone of the nearshore region in more complicated conditions , a numerical scheme for the calculation of combined wave and current is proposed on the basis of the Boussinesq equations .

波浪破碎在自然界和工程实际中是一种常见的现象。

Wave breaking is a common phenomenon in nature and engineering practice .

海岸带波浪破碎区污染物运动的实验研究

Laboratory ; Experimental study on pollutant transport in surf zone

然而，波浪破碎对混合层的影响深度仅限于一个有效波高的尺度；

The affecting depth of wave breaking is only limited in one significant wave height .

一种改进的近岸波浪破碎数值模型

Improved numerical model for nearshore wave breaking

关于波浪破碎特性的研究

Approach to characteristics of wave breaking

当潜堤使得波浪破碎时，潜堤位置对海堤越浪量有较大影响。

It turns out that wave breaking around the submerged-dike is one important factor influencing the overtopping .

数值计算结果表明，该数值模型可以有效地模拟近岸波浪破碎产生的近岸流。

It was shown by numerical results that the model was effective in modeling near-shore wave-induced currents .

一种近岸区波浪破碎模型

A nearshore wave breaking model

并考虑了动床海滩坡度、底摩擦以及紊动对波浪破碎特性的影响。

And the effect of beach slope , bed friction and breaking turbulence on wave breaking is considered .

为了验证数值模型的适用性，模拟了斜坡地形上的波浪破碎和爬高。

In order to verify the numerical model , wave runup and breaking are simulated on a slope bed .

不规则波试验分析表明：波浪破碎前，波高分布可用格鲁霍夫斯基分布很好地表示；

Thus , wave height distribution and wave breaking probability required for parametric model are physically studied in this paper .

海洋白冠作为波浪破碎的重要表现，是海气界面普遍存在的现象，长期以来一直引起人们的广泛关注。

As ubiquitous phenomena at the air-sea interface and significant signature of wave breaking , whitecap has stimulated a common interest in the past .

黄骅港海域风浪场推算及波浪破碎位置分析海岸带波浪破碎区污染物运动的实验研究

Prediction of Wind-wave Field in Huanghua Port Sea Area and Analysis of Position of Breaking Waves Experimental study on pollutant transport in surf zone

海上溢油可以被多种过程所分散，其中波浪破碎是溢油入水的最直接最主要原因。

Oil spills at sea can be dispersed by a variety of natural processes , of which the influence of breaking wave is dominant .

给出了污染物在波浪破碎区和非破碎区运动范围的变化，讨论了在规则波和非规则波作用下波浪破碎区和非破碎区污染物运动的宏观变化趋势。

The movement range and direction of pollutants in the diverse zones of the gently sloping beach under the action of regular and irregular waves were provided and studied .

因此，在非线性理论中就准确应用波浪破碎判据来说，波峰传播速度的精确计算是非常必要的。

The accurate calculation of the crest speed , in terms of the criterion of wave breaking and the calculation of wave refraction near shore , is sometimes essential .

采用涡粘性方法处理波浪破碎、窄缝方法处理海岸动边界，使其适用于近岸波浪运动。

To apply to the wave motions in nearshore region , the eddy viscosity method and slot method are respectively adapted to mimic the energy dissipation of wave breaking and moving shoreline boundary .

在势流理论的框架内，采用高阶边界元方法和混合欧拉-拉格朗日法，实现了对三维波浪破碎过程的数值模拟。

This paper presents a study on mathematical modeling of breaking waves using the high order boundary element method ( HOBEM ) and the hybrid Eulerian-Lagrangian method for three dimensional potential flows with the free surface .

根据波浪破碎的情况，把堤前波浪划分为三类，在每一类波浪作用下，不同的泥沙粒径，都对应着不同的冲淤形态。

The waves in front of breakwater are divided into three types according to the wave breaking conditions . Under the action of each wave , the different sediment is corresponding to different scouring and depositing pattern .

水下部分-1&-3m处为波浪破碎区和潮流强烈作用区，受到侵蚀和冲刷，并且悬浮起的泥沙向岸和深水区运移，形成两个稳定堆积区。

In the area with depth ranging from-1m to-3m , where the sediments are eroded by breaking waves and tidal currents , the suspended substances are transported shoreward and to the deep ses area , and two stable accumulation regions are formed .

采用该模型对规则波和不规则波破碎引起的增减水进行了数值模拟，数值模拟结果与实验结果吻合良好，表明该模型可有效模拟近岸区由于波浪破碎引起的增减水。

The model is used to simulate the wave set - up of regular and irregular waves . The numerical results are in good agreement with experimental data , which shows that the model can simulate effectively the wave set-up due to wave breaking in the coastal areas .

采用有限大二面角劈结构来近似模拟碎浪三维几何模型，根据波浪破碎判据得到碎浪在二维海面上的空间分布并与实测及经验公式比较。

The three-dimensional geometric models of the breaking waves are approximately simulated with the dihedral wedge with finite size . According to the breaking criteria of the sea waves , the distribution of the breakers is obtained , which is also compared with the measured data and empirical formulas .